Isaac-p



UNITED STATES PATENT OFMce.

ISAAGP. TURNER, OF TROY, NEW YORK,`ASSIGNOR TO MARSHALL 85 BRIGGS, OF SAME PLACE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of `Letters Patent No.n 252,341, dated January 1,7, 1882.

I n Application filed Novcmbtr 9, 1881. (No model.)

T0 all whom it may concern Beit known that I, ISAAC I?. TURNER,of the city of Troy, county7 of Rensselaer, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Apparel-Cuffs, of which the following is a specitication.

My in\:ention consists, as hereinafter to be described, of the relative form given to and the manner employed to unite the blanks `from which apparel-cuffs Vare made, and in which one ofthe blanks is cut from the fabric so as to have-a width which is double that of the other blanks used, and when folded longitudinally nearits center, and an intermediate thickness oflinen having halfthe width of the double blank is placed between the folds of the latter, and the side edges of both blanks are stitched and the united blanks turned through eitherof their unsewed ends, the double blank will form with one of its folds the exterior facing of the cuff and with its other fold athickness of the intermediate ply, with thelinen blankinserted between its folds before 4being stitched and. turned, forming the linen exterior of the cuff,

when the parts are reversed by turning. The" additional blankr used to form with one fold of the double blank the intermediate stiffeningply is sewed before the parts are turned, at the Sametime thatthe other parts arestitched,and is then placed next to and what is the outside of that one of the double-blank folds which, when the parts are sewed and turned to reverse their relative position, forms the exterior ofr the cuff-facin g.

The object of my invention is to produce from a continuous piece of fabric a blank which can be folded longitudinally, so that one of its folds will form the whole facing of the cuff and the other fold a thickness of the intermediate ply, and so that the line of its longitudinal fold may be variedto shorten up more or less the width of the fold forming the ply, and thus-meet the varying measures of shrinkage occurring in the material used, and so avoid the necessity of` employing differing blankpatterns to produce the same kind of cuff with uniformity.

In the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, there are eight figures illustrating my invention, and in all of Figure l shows thi` double blank, the line of its longitudinal t'old being indicated by a dotted line, which is shown as placed a little be! low its center. Fig. 2 illustrates the linen blank which is placed between the folds of the double blank, and which with one fold of the double blank forms the exterior faces. of the culi' when stitched and turned. Fig. 3 desighates the blank which forms with one fold ot' the double blank the intermediate ply. Fig. 4 indicates the position of the blanks when placed together to be stitched, with parts of them cut away atone corner and aline of stitching produced upon one of their sides to con-V uect them. Fig. 5 shows a vertical section taken on the line m w of Fig. 4., with the thicknessofA the blanks enlarged to better show them, and the section also made longerI for the same purpose. Fig. 6 illustrates asection of the blanks enlarged unequally to illustrate their position when the longer ones are curled outwardly so as to bring the edge of the narr'ower blank to coincide with the other edges,

after one side has been stitched, to stitch the others. `Fig. `7 shows a completed cuff; and Fig. 8,a section taken through Fig. 7, with the parts unequally enlarged to better illustrate them, and taken on the line e e.

The several parts are designated by-letterreference, and the manner of putting them to-v gether to form a culi thus described.

The letter B indicates a blank of about dou- ;ble the vertical width of the blanks C and D,

s is run to connect them together. The blanks,

thus sewed upon their edges at one side, are then stitched upon the other sideby bending outwardly the wider blanks, so as to make the edges of thelatter andthat of the` shorter fold A2 coincide with the parts in the position indicated in Fig. 6,the line of stitching which so secures them being indicated at s s. The ply fold A2 is thus narrower than the others, which is an advantage when the cuff is turned, andits relative dit't'erenecin vertical width when compared with the others may he varied upon foldingitto suit the differing shrinkages of material, and thus the use otone blank-pattern may take the plave of several as they Iare generally used. A't'ter the blanks are thus folded, applied to eachother, and stitched together at their side edges, as has been described, they are turned through eitherottheir unsewed ends.

VThe latter are then turned in and the usual row of border stitching is run around theends and sides in continuity, which securesthe ends. When the cuff is thus finished the fold A forms the facing ot' the cuff', the blank C itslinen exterior, and the narrower fold A2 a part of the intermediate ply wheni more than one thickness ofthe latter is used, and the whole of the ply when a three-ply eutt' is made, for my invention in its entiretyT can be applied to produce a three or four or tive ply culi', and to any form ot' cuff in'which a double blank can be used, in substantially the same manner.

.Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent,

l. In an apparel-cuff, the combination ot' the double blank B, made of a continuous piece of fabric adapted to be folded longitudinally so as to produce the unequal folds A and A2, and the linen blank G, placed between the folds ot the double blank when folded down for stitching,` their side edges. to form with the blank C and the Wider fold A the exterior vot' the cuff, and with the narrower fold A2 the intermediate ply, or a thickness of the ply, when the parts are placed with reference to each other, stitched at their side edges and turned through either of their unsevwed ends, in the manner herein shown and described.

2. An apparel-cuff made with the double blank B folded longitudinally to produce the unequal folds Al and A2, the linen blank C placed between the said folds of the double blank when laid, the blank D placed next to the fold A', with the parts sewed together near the edges of their sides,'their side edges coinciding, and then turned through either of their unsewed ends, so that the blank C will form the linen exterior of the cu", the foldl A"its facing, the blank D and the fold A2 its intermediate ply, with the ends of the cul' turned in and the Whole bordel' stitched, as herein'shown and described.

Signed at Troy, New York, this 7th day ot' November, A. D. 1881.

vIsAAo P. TURNER.

Witnesses:

CHARLES S. BRINTNALL, HORACE L. HIcKs. 

